My Sticky Gadget

Monday, September 1, 2014

DIY Wood Shim Wall Art

Do you have that one wall in your house that whatever you hang on it just doesn't look right? Well, I have a few in my house and the wall next to my couch was one of them. I wanted something long and big to cover most of the area, and after seeing this piece from Shanty 2 Chic, I knew I had to make it. 
I ended up having most of the wood from previous projects so I only spent around $8 for the whole thing! 




Here is what you'll need to create this piece:
2x4 plywood - I cut mine to 1 1/2 x 4.
2 packs of shims - The longer ones 
2 - 1x3 furring trim
2 - 1x2 furring trim
nail gun 
wood glue
jig saw
stain 
white paint
** I completely forgot to take pictures of some steps but I will do my best to explain them. You're smart, you'll figure it out ;) 




 I used a piece of plywood that I had leftover from a previous project. You can buy and use nicer wood for this.


Find the middle and draw a line straight down. Start putting your shims on the board by gluing and nailing them on. Shims are thicker on one side and gradually thin out. Rotate the shims as you're applying them on to give it texture.

 Here is where I missed taking the pictures because while making this, I was also making sure my son wasn't doing anything crazy. Can you see his arm in the down right corner above? :) 

Here is what I did.

  • After gluing and stapling all the shims on the board,  I used a jig saw to cut all the extra wood that was hanging over the edges. 
  • Cut and nail in the 1x3 trim on all the edges. 
  • Cut and nail in the 1x2 trim on the inside of the piece, along the 1x3 trim.



 I stained the whole thing using a sponge applicator, let it sit for 10 minutes, then worked the stain into the wood with a clean rag.


 Let it dry for a few hours.


 I wanted to give this piece a little more character, so I decided to white wash it. I love white washing because it's so easy and gives the piece a unique color. 
All you need is 1 part paint and 3 parts water. 


Mix the paint and water together. Working in small sections, roughly brush the white wash on and wipe with a clean dry rag after a few seconds. 


 Let it dry over night and, that's it! How easy does that sound? 








I absolutely love how it turned out and it's the perfect size for my space. 

Feel free to SHARE & PIN this for your future projects! 
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Friday, August 15, 2014

DIY Round Table

First post on the new blog!
 A few weeks ago John made the most awesome piece of furniture so far. After much thought I decided to sell our old dining room table which John also built and have him build me a new one that wasn't so big. Our last table seated 8 people very comfortably. We decided to build the octagon table from Ana White. Why an octagon shape? I wanted a round table and John wanted square, so we met in the middle and built this! 
Everything  turned out perfect except for one little mistake we made that I will show you so you don't make it. (we fixed it, whew!)
 

 There are a lot of angles that need to be cut, but if you have a mitter saw you have nothing to worry about. 

Here is what you will need.
via: Ana White 

Shopping list:
7 - 1x6 @ 8 feet long (cut longest first)
2- 2x2 @ 8 feet long
2 - 2x6 @ 8 feet long
1 - 1x8 @ 6 feet long
1 - 2x8 @ 6 feet long
2 - 2x3 @ 8 feet long
screws and nails
Cut List:

BASE PIECES
4 - 1x6 @ 5-1/4" (long point measurment, one end cut at 30 degree bevel)
2 - 1x6 @ 18-1/2" (long point measurmenet, one end cut at 30 degree bevel)
2 - 2x6 @ 18-1/8" (long point measurmenet, one end cut at 45 degree bevel)
2 - 1x6 @ 16-1/8"
1 - 1x6 @ 44" (long point measurmenet, both ends cut at 30 degree bevel)
1 - 2x6 @ 43-1/8" (long point measurmenet, both ends cut at 45 degree bevel)
1 - 1x6 @ 39-1/8"
CENTER PEDESTAL
2 - 1x8 @ 27-3/4"
1 - 1x8 @ 5-1/2" (cut to width of 1x6s)
2 - 1x6 @ 24"
2 - 2x6 @ 23 1/4"
1 - 2x8 @ 52"
TABELTOP
4 - 1x6 @ 56-1/2"
2 - 1x6 @ 56-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
2 - 1x6 @ 45-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
2 - 1x6 @ 34-1/2" CUT TO FIT!!! (long point to long point, both ends cut at 45 degrees off square)
CUT 2x2 trim pieces to fit
 After cutting the wood we started building the legs. 


 We used wood glue and the nail gun for bind them together. 



 Begin screwing the wood that will form your base with 2.5 inch screws into the legs. 

 This is where we messed up (but we fixed it). We were supposed to make pocket holes with our Kreg Jig into the small piece that goes in the middle. So don't forget to make pocket holes into the small piece that does in the middle.
 Slide in the long leg. 

  We used 2.5 inch screws to secure the long leg in place. 


 Finish off the base by using the nail gun to nail the pieces together. 


 Done! Just kidding


Time to build the support that holds the top of the table.  Sad part is I didn't get a picture of this but all you need to do is make 2 pocket holes into the smaller pieces of wood and screw them together to the long piece to make a plus sign like this + 


Once the support is finished, apply some glue to the base and screw on with 2.5 inch screws.


 Support is done, and now on to the top. Use the kreg jig to make pocket holes then screw the top together with 1 1/4 inch screws. It's best to clamp the wood as you screw them on to hold them in place. 

 Once you have the 4 straight pieces of wood screwed on, it's time to cut all the angled pieces. Ana recommends to measure and cut every piece as you go. 




Finish off the top by adding the 2x2s on. Measure and cut each side. We used wood glue and the nail gun to securely attach each piece. 

 Once the top is done, screw it on from underneath to the support that you built with 2.5 inch screws. 


Cut all your trusses and attach with some glue and the nail gun. 



 Fill in all the holes with wood filler. I like this one because it goes on purple and turns white when it's dry. 
  Here is my favorite part.
I lightly sanded the top to give it a smooth finish and applied one coat of stain, let it sit for 15 minutes and used a clean cotton cloth to work it into the wood. I let it dry over night. 
I applied 4 coats of poly on the top and 2 coats on the base and legs. I let the top coat dry completely for 2 days before I brought in the house. 


 As for the chairs, I was stuck between two kinds. 

And after seeing Ashley's post from Shanty 2 Chic I decided to go with the metal chairs that I got from Target. I'm still not 100% sold on them but they will do just fine for now. 
I'm very happy with how the table turned out. I will admit when I saw how many angles it needed I got a little intimidated but with the right tools and handy man (or woman) it's a piece of cake. 







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